Swivelbreech Kit


This picture shows the complete kit as it will be shipped to you. The butt plate, thimbles and nose cap are pre-inlet but not attached; they are as cast and will have to be polished. The lock release, side plate, tang, triggers, and trigger guard will be attached. The dove tails for the sights will be cut in and the sights will be supplied but not installed.


#2227 The stocks have been shaped on a C and C machine but will still require a small amount of rasping and sanding.


#2228 The loading stick groove has been cut in and the loading stick has been tapered to fit.


#2230 The back end of the lower thimble must be shaped and inlet into the wood. The wood there is very thin and must be done very carefully.


The 4/40 screw in the picture goes between the barrels and screws into the base of the thimble. The holes between the barrels have already been drilled.


Inlet the thimble until the loading stick will slide in.


#2233 The middle and upper thimble are partially inlet, just the ends will require fitting.


The front end of the wood side panels must be trimmed off leaving a V-tab so the nose cap will hold the panel in place.


The butt plate is pre-inlet and is very close but will require a minimal amount of fitting. Two wood screws will be supplied to attach the butt plate.


#2241 The holes are already drilled in the wood panel for the screws that hold the thimbles.



The trigger guard is held to the action by a machine screw and the tab at the rear must be pinned through the stock and will require some minor inletting and fitting.


The tang and trigger plate is fully inlet and are screwed together with a long 8/32 machine screw.


The lock and side plate are also screwed together with an 8/32 machine screw.



The sliding wood patch box is completely cut in and the door is fit. If you would prefer, a metal box, it can be attached over the opening. Only the wood box is supplied.


As you can see the butt plate is very close to fitting.



The side panels are shaped almost to the frizzen moldings and must be completed after the moldings have been cut in.





The hole for the lower thimble has already been cut, but the tang will have to be shaped and inlet. Be very careful, the wood is very thin between the hole and the outside of the panel. Although it is not necessary, I would recommend glass bedding this area. This is the tutorial, click here. I recommend putting a point on the tab of the lower thimble.


The hole is already drilled between the barrels for the nose cap.


The nose cap itself will have to be drilled and tapped for the 4/40 machine screw, which is supplied. The little tab on the wood is there for the nose cap to hold the panel down.


The frizzen plate is already inlet but the panels around the plate must be shaped.


The frizzen plate in place.


Opposite side of nose cap.


Both sides of the nose cap.




  • The hardware will be either steel or brass.
  • The barrels are all 54 caliber; the choice will be both rifled, both smooth, or one of each.
  • A small Davis double set trigger can be used to replace the single trigger and will fit by extending the trigger plate mortice and will line up perfectly with the trigger sear. I do not supply the double set trigger.

More pictures of the swivel action: Click here